In many ways Siena hasn't changed much in 800 years. And that's a good thing. The town's gorgeous 13th-century main square, the Piazza del Campo, is still the city's symbolic and physical heart. The twice-a-summer bareback horse race, Il Palio, is still the most anticipated event, and the contrade, or neighborhood associations, still inspire a loyalty as deep as they did in medieval times. At the same time the ancient university here continues to deliver important research while imbuing the town with a youthful spirit. Florence, Siena's biggest rival to the north, may have won the battle in terms of historical significance and blockbuster art over the centuries, but Siena is decidedly less touristy and more livable. In the past few years, new boutiques and wine bars (not to mention updated restaurants) have been sprinkled in among some newly restored treasures.
Friday
4 p.m.
1. HISTORY LESSON
Siena has always held itself up as a model city. Nowhere is that sense of identity more on display than at the city's Museo Civico (Piazza del Campo, 1; 39-0577-292-615; comune.siena.it; 8 euros admission for the museum, or $10 at $1.26 to the euro; 13 with the tower) in the Piazza del Campo. Here you'll find beautiful frescoes, like the collection painted by Simone Martini, but of special note is Ambrogio Lorenzetti's Sala della Pace and his Allegory of Good and Bad Government. Commissioned by the city council in the 14th century, at the height of the city-state's power, the frescoes depict on one side a city at peace, and on the other a tyrant-ruled Siena in ruins, with armies descending on one another. If you climb to the top of the adjacent tower, the Torre Mangia, you can see that even today the countryside runs straight up to the city walls. That coexistence of rural with metropolis, without sprawl, is one of this area's main attractions.
8 p.m.
2. TUSCAN TREATS
Few dishes are more Tuscan than bistecca Fiorentina, the succulent grilled steak from the prized Chianina breed. At Enoteca I Terzi (Via dei Termini, 7; 39-0577-443-29; enotecaiterzi.it; entrees from 9 euros), the juicy meat is carved on the restaurant's marble counter before being taken to the table with daily pastas. The wine list is also a huge draw with classics from Tuscany as well as an excellent selection from all over the world. Housed in a former pharmacy (with a beautiful open kitchen), Osteria le Logge (Via del Porrione, 33; 39-0577-480-13; giannibrunelli.it; entrees from 22 euros) sits just off the campo and epitomizes a seasonal and local approach, with daily specials like porcini mushroom salad, taglierini al tartufo and pumpkin-stuffed ravioli among the autumnal treats. Be sure to ask for a table in the ground-floor sala with its painted ceilings and armoires lined with wine bottles.
10 p.m.
3. CENTER STAGE
Piazza del Campo is the ideal Italian piazza, a huge, gorgeous space reached by winding streets that suddenly converge in front of the city's exquisite town hall. The tables at Bar Il Palio (Piazza del Campo, 47; 39-0577-282-055) have one of the best views of the piazza; try an after-dinner drink like a grappa or vin santo.
Saturday
10 a.m.
4. SWEET START
Sienese sweets are not particularly well known, but you can't leave before trying the two staples — panforte and ricciarelli. The former, with its spices and dry fruit, is reminiscent of a slightly hard Christmas cake. The ricciarelli are a crowd pleaser: soft almond-based cookies with a crunchy top and hints of honey and vanilla. At Nannini (Via Banchi di Sopra, 24; 39-0577-303-080; grupponannini.it) sample a couple at the stand-up bar with a cappuccino.
11 a.m.
5. NEW AND OLD
One of the city's draws is its recent push to restore older structures with modern elements. At the Santa Maria della Scala (Piazza Duomo, 1; 39-0577-534-571; santamariadellascala.com; admission 3.50 euros), for example, a remarkable structure built as a hospital in the 11th century has been transformed into an extraordinary complex, which includes the painstakingly restored pilgrims' halls and chapel of the Madonna, alongside new additions like an archaeological museum, a children's museum, a modern bar and a bookshop. The Museo dell'Opera del Duomo (Piazza Duomo, 8; 39-0577-286-300; operaduomo.siena.it; museum admission, 6 euros) occupies part of Siena's unfinished cathedral, in what would have been its nave, and showcases some of the centerpieces for the proposed building. These include the Maestà , a spectacular two-sided altarpiece designed by the great Sienese artist Duccio, a work considered by many scholars as the world's most important late medieval artwork in existence.
1 p.m.
6. QUICK BITES
Osteria-style lunches tend to be simple affairs with tables crammed with friends, and plates that don't stop coming. Da Trombicche (Via del Terme; 39-0577-288-089; trombicche.it; small plates from 6 euros) exemplifies the type, a seven-table spot run by two brothers where sausage, local meats like prosciutto and salami, panzanella, meatballs and different types of fresh frittata are accompanied by carafes of house wine. Vinyl album covers from the likes of Lou Reed, David Bowie and the Rolling Stones are mounted alongside posters of palios past (there is even a stuffed porcupine to represent their contrada). If you don't make it for lunch, stop by for aperitivo time — the 1-euro spritzes are one of the best deals in town.
3 p.m.
7. FASHION HUBS
Unfortunately Siena's clothing store choices have mostly been taken over by big brands that you can find almost anywhere in the world. But two shops have a more carefully curated selection. Dolci Trame (Via del Moro, 4; 39-0577-461-68; dolcitrame.it) has a wonderful, if pricey, collection including Roberto del Carlo shoes, Golden Goose coats and featherweight cashmere sweaters from Luna Bi, in a jewel box of a space. Mag (Via dei Termini, 49; 39-0577-410-43; magboutique.it) is another fashion lover's must, with Marni, Maria Calderara and Pucci among the pickings.
8 p.m.
8. FISH, PLEASE
Though the culinary scene here may be better known for its meaty fare, Tre Cristi (Vicolo di Provenzano, 1/7; 39-0577-280-608; trecristi.com; entrees from 12 euros) is a fantastic seafood find thanks to its fresh selection from the Tuscan coast, about 45 minutes away. The restaurant has been around since 1830, but the younger owners have made it more inventive. The "calamari eggplant Parmesan" has crispy strips of calamari battered with cheese sitting on chunks of aubergine, and the catch of the day includes options like amberjack baked with potatoes, zucchini and olives.
10 p.m.
9. MAKING MUSIC
Siena isn't particularly well known for its night life, which is why locals are excited about the arrival of Un Tubo (Via del Luparello, 2; 39-0577-271-312; untubo.it), a club with live music that ranges from classical to rock. It also has a showpiece of a wine cantina, with the original tufo, to keep the bottles cool. The spot is a members' club but visitors can gain access with a 12-euro entrance fee.
Sunday
11 a.m.
10. THE FIXINGS
Sunday is the day when locals like to head to a quaint hill town or crumbling abbey for a secluded picnic. Follow this lead and pick out some essentials before you head out. Tucked into Palazzo della Chigiana, Antica Pizzicheria (Via di Citta, 93/95; 39-0577-289-164) is an atmospheric deli with prosciutto haunches, sausages and hot peppers hanging from the ceiling. Local wines, fresh bread, wild boar sausages and pecorino are among the offerings.
Noon
11. IN THE COUNTRYSIDE
San Galgano is a Benedictine abbey about 40 minutes' drive away. Now roofless, the effect of looking up at a bright sky from inside the remaining walls is an evocative experience. If a hill town is more your speed, the medieval town of Monteriggioni is a beautifully preserved village, with a series of watchtowers, and is home to excellent restaurants like Bar dell'Orso (Via Cassia Nord, 23; 39-0577-305-074; bardellorso.com) where you can get delicious panini to go for 2 euros, or Il Pozzo (Piazza Roma, 20; 39-0577-304-127; entrees from 16 euros), a more formal affair in Monteriggioni's main square.
IF YOU GO
Campo Regio Relais (Via della Sapienza, 25; 39-0577-222-073; camporegio.com; doubles from 150 euros, or $190) has an excellent location outside the main tourist fray but is within walking distance of the major sites. The panorama of the Duomo is matched by the friendly service.
Less than 10 miles away, Borgo Scopeto (Strada Comunale 14; 39-0577-320-001; borgoscopetorelais.it; double rooms from 240 euros) has a rural feel with two pools, a spa and tennis courts. The view of Siena in the distance, especially at night, is lovely.
Anda sedang membaca artikel tentang
36 Hours in Siena, Italy
Dengan url
http://travelwisatawan.blogspot.com/2012/10/36-hours-in-siena-italy.html
Anda boleh menyebar luaskannya atau mengcopy paste-nya
36 Hours in Siena, Italy
namun jangan lupa untuk meletakkan link
sebagai sumbernya
0 komentar:
Posting Komentar