In New York City, a tiny pizza shop serving thin-crust pies would scarcely be cause for buzz. In Chicago, land of the deep dish and the generously proportioned Midwestern restaurant, such an establishment is almost an oddity. But novelty isn't the only reason Great Lake, a 14-seat spot started by Nick Lessins and Lydia Esparza in the Andersonville neighborhood, has been drawing crowds. Its tightly edited and fast-changing menu, featuring only three or four kinds of pies a night, incorporates the unexpected, like corn, cream and chives, or, on another, a tomatillo-based sauce — a tribute to Esparza's Mexican lineage. Rather than mozzarella di bufala, Lessins has taken to using sheep's milk cheese, sourced from a dairy in northern Wisconsin. "I tried to come up with something that would fill a niche in the city," Lessins says. "But I spent the most amount of time trying to get the crust right. There just wasn't enough attention being paid to making a really good crust." More…
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