Bites : Eating Among Locals on a Venetian Island

Written By Unknown on Kamis, 31 Januari 2013 | 17.35

If beautiful Murano glass is a strong draw to the Venetian Lagoon island, camera-snapping groups clogging the canals, and the cookie-cutter restaurants hoping to sell them a pizza along the way, can have the opposite effect. But thanks to a culinary newcomer, there's a reason to return. Opened last April by Giovanna Arcangeli — a Murano native who planned events at the legendary Harry's Bar for a decade and knows a thing or two about preserving a cultured calm in the midst of a touristy enclave — Acquastanca is a refuge from all that. "We wanted to create a place where guests would be able to relax and enjoy good food in a warm, quiet atmosphere with locals," Ms. Arcangeli said.

Marco Ferro/Acquastanca, Venice

A meringue dessert at Acquastanca.

During a recent lunchtime visit, local businessmen taking a stand-up break at the bar were sipping Soave from the Veneto and snacking on cichetti, Venetian snacks like crispy prawns and octopus salad; a group of Venetians and a fashionable Italian mother and her teenage daughter occupied the few wood tables by the canal. Housed in a former bakery, the restaurant is stylish but not overdone: with wood beam ceilings, brick walls and resin floors, the setting is intimate but modern.

Caterina Nason, the chef and Ms. Arcangeli's sister-in-law, focuses on simple preparations of seafood, appropriate for a lagoon restaurant. Highlights include a buttery and perfectly briny spaghetti alle vongole; crispy orata (sea bream), baked in the oven with potatoes; baccalà with polenta; and tagliolini with squid.

One of Ms. Nason's strengths is her house-made desserts, so save room for daily selections like lemon meringue cake, tiramisù and coffee coviglia (a coffee semifreddo). And there's a wine list with a nice selection culled mainly from the nearby regions of Veneto, Friuli and Trentino Alto Adige.

Acquastanca serves as a sort of hideaway for groups like that table of Venetians — not too fancy but with good, local food, where you can stop in from breakfast to dinner for an espresso or a full meal. It has been a successful undertaking mostly because it's a homegrown but sophisticated vision in a city that often feels overpackaged. And if you want to really fit in, ask for an ombra — a little sip of white wine that comes from the old Venetian custom of selling white wine from vendors with little carts in the ombra, or shade, to keep it cool. 

Acquastanca, Fondamenta Manin 48, Murano, Venice; (39-041) 319-5125. An average meal for two, without drinks or tip, is about 30 euros (about $39, at $1.29 to the euro).


Anda sedang membaca artikel tentang

Bites : Eating Among Locals on a Venetian Island

Dengan url

http://travelwisatawan.blogspot.com/2013/01/bites-eating-among-locals-on-venetian.html

Anda boleh menyebar luaskannya atau mengcopy paste-nya

Bites : Eating Among Locals on a Venetian Island

namun jangan lupa untuk meletakkan link

Bites : Eating Among Locals on a Venetian Island

sebagai sumbernya

0 komentar:

Posting Komentar

techieblogger.com Techie Blogger Techie Blogger