If you think French food has lost its laurels, next trip to Paris, head for the rue Paul Bert. Thanks to the shrewd and very amiable restaurateur Bertrand Auboyneau, this short, quiet street in the 11th Arrondissement offers a full house of addresses that will prove you wrong. The mother ship is Le Bistrot Paul Bert (No. 18), which has become an internationally renowned cult favorite for being the bistro that's been ticking all the boxes on what the whole world thinks a Paris bistro should be ever since it opened some 10 years ago — we're talking a gorgeous flea-market interior, great traditional French grub, a terrific wine list and service with just enough pouty posing attitude to let you know you're in Paris. Then there's the superb Ecailler du Bistrot (No. 22), which tips its hand to show why Paris is the best city in Europe for seafood lovers — it pulls in the best of France's small boat catch daily, and the oysters come directly from the bivalve park of Auboyneau's wife's family in Brittany.
And now baby makes three with the new Le 6 Paul Bert (No. 6, bien sûr), which opened just before Christmas and has become an immediate hit. Some 20 years after the chef Yves Camdeborde introduced the era of "bistronomie," or the modern bistro, in Paris with his restaurant La Regalade, this is Auboyneau's shrewd take on what a bistro should be in the 21st century. The restaurant reflects both his unerring good taste — who else would have thought of sawing the bottoms off of a bunch of antique water carafes to create the puckishly nostalgic light fixtures over the bar? — and an astute reading of what Parisians are hungry for at the beginning of a new century. That is to say, comfort food with a cosmopolitan spin that winks at the cooking of young Turk chefs in other cities, like David Chang in New York and a long-boat full of New Nordic Vikings, while remaining resolutely original.
This place is all about conviviality, with a long table d'hotes, a few seats at the bar, and a much-in-demand table for six in front of the open kitchen where the Montrealer chef Louis-Philippe Riel rises to the challenge of cooking a completely new small-plates menu daily. Think seared scallops with roasted onions and chopped scallion tops in an almost invisible citrus dressing; herring with beets, pickles and sour cream — a dashing little feint at the deli traditions of Montreal and New York; barbecued pork with pickled vegetable slaw on a miniature crepe of mashed carrot — perfect food from the Chang gang. This isn't the kind of food that will interrupt a conversation. Instead, these often modest but impeccably cooked and deeply satisfying little dishes come back to haunt you a week later when you urgently want some more. (N.B.: Book a late reservation here — the kitchen will be under less pressure — and wait it out nearby at the a new wine bar by the chef Bertrand Grébaut of the smash hit bistro Septime.)
Le 6 Paul Bert, 6 rue Paul Bert, 11th Arrondissement; 011-33-1-4379-1432
Septime Cave, 3 rue Basfroi, 11th Arrondissement; no phone, no reservations.
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