In Paris, the interior designer Jean-Michel Wilmotte and the hotelier Lisa Konckier-Abrat have created an elegant and supremely handsome 33-room hotel that's one of the best examples of big-city boutique lodgings on the Continent. Think luxe, calme et volupté.
In a stroke of brilliant understatement, Wilmotte made the fragile and dreamlike 19th-century atmosphere of this forgotten corner of Paris's Ninth Arrondissement the main decorative element of his design for the hotel by treating the windows like picture frames onto the surrounding neighborhood. You see the facades and rooftops of Paris and the 19th-century church of Saint Eugène and Saint Cécile (where Jules Verne was married). The rooms pass on what you might think of as modern luxury and instead emphasize the beauty of raw materials: there are taupe linen veneers at the windows, carpets of straw-colored organic Swedish wool on the floors, and Oregon myrtle wood accessories in the white marble Japanese-style soaking tubs. Most of these tubs are carved from single blocks of stone. This place gets the smaller details right, too, from Artemide lamps built into the headboards to bonbons from the nearby confectioner A la Mere de Famille (founded in 1761 and famous for its candied chestnuts).
The conservatory lobby bar is great for drinks before dinner at the hotel's restaurant, La Régalade Conservatoire, which has become a destination on its own as the third outpost of the chef Bruno Doucet's excellent contemporary French bistro La Régalade. The 35 euro prix fixe chalkboard menu at lunch and dinner changes regularly but runs to dishes like scallop carpaccio with finely diced Granny Smith apple and comté cheese or roasted veal breast with root vegetables, along with what may be the best rice pudding in Paris.
Hôtel de Nell, 7-9 Rue du Conservatoire, Ninth Arrondissement; 011-33-1-4483-8360; hoteldenell.com. Double rooms from about $468.
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