The Tokyo Station Hotel
The hotel's lobby lounge.
Doubles from about 29,000 yen, or $300 at 97 yen to the dollar.
Basics
The Tokyo Station Hotel is a thoroughly modern update of the original Western-style hotel in Tokyo's landmark central railroad station, with 150 luxurious rooms. Reopened in October 2012 after a six-year renovation, the hotel dates back to 1915, a year after the station opened. The massive building they share is a rare relic of a brief architectural era, nearly obliterated by a 1923 earthquake and World War II firebombing, when Tokyo buildings took on a late Victorian and Edwardian look. In a city of skyscrapers and postwar concrete, it stands out with its domes, its red brick facade, and a long three-story profile that translates into almost humorously lengthy corridors in the hotel. (Fortunately, the trek to my room was pleasant: softly lighted and quiet, with plush carpet underfoot.)
Location
The hotel is in Marunouchi, the historical center of Tokyo, close to the Imperial Palace. Express trains from Narita Airport, as well as subways and trains from all over the city, arrive at the attached rail station.
The Room
My king superior room, for 44,100 yen, was decorated with dark woods, heavy silk draperies, carpeting in a muted pattern suggestive of fleurs-de-lis, and a glass chandelier. Sturdy and attractive furniture was scattered about: a comfortable bed flanked by night stands with focused reading lights, an upholstered chair and glass cocktail table, a dresser. Channels in several languages were available on the large flat-screen television, and the latest issue of Time magazine's international edition was on the desk. Serenity reigned. Although I was in one of the world's busiest railroad stations, I never heard a train.
The Bathroom
Studio-apartment-size — not the size of the studio's bathroom, but of the whole apartment. Wooden blinds covered a wide floor-to-ceiling window, glass doors enclosed a bathing alcove with a gleaming white soaking tub and a spacious rain shower, and, in its own private sanctum, the toilet offered various rinsing and warming functions with a wall panel of controls. The white terry robes were thick and fluffy but not an improvement over the much more comfortable cotton yukata kimonos traditionally provided in Japanese hotels.
Amenities
I didn't have time to try the spa and fitness rooms, and didn't need the business center, but would not have missed the guests-only breakfast (3,960 yen) in an expansive, lofty room called the Atrium. This was a white-tablecloth buffet with Western-style and Japanese cuisine stations serving everything from shrimp and smoked salmon to omelets, French pastries, Japanese porridge, rice and seaweed.
Room Service
A "sandwich set" on three open-faced half slices of bread (2,200 yen) was ordered at 6:58 p.m., promised at 7:30, and arrived at 7:23, rolled in under a linen tablecloth. The food was tasty and satisfying, the presentation elegant. A request for milk, often a challenging order in Japan, elicited just one question: "Hot or cold?"
Bottom Line
In a city with many Western-style luxury hotels, this one offers a unique character and some reasonably affordable options, as well as very attractive rooms and excellent service.
Tokyo Station Hotel, 1-9-1 Marunouchi, (81-3) 5220-1111; thetokyostationhotel.jp.
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