Berlin, which has been Germany's modern capital for only 23 years, has reached a coming-of-age moment. As it attempts to evolve from a city that relies heavily on government support to one with sustainable industries, companies like Google and Etsy have opened up offices, joining technology start-ups like SoundCloud and ResearchGate, giving credit to the hype that Berlin is becoming a contender for Europe's Silicon Valley.
The city's Wild West energy and landscape is also changing. Certain areas, like Mitte and pockets of Kreuzberg and Neukölln, are transforming faster than it takes to say "fair-trade organic coffee bar." Berlin still boasts a legendary nightclub and art scene, but now it seems that every two weeks, a grown-up cocktail bar or restaurant opens up in Mitte, the neighborhood of choice for Berlin's global professionals.
Not long ago even the gentrifying parts of Neukölln were too gritty for most tourists, but these days, even less adventuresome travelers will be charmed by the shops and cafes popping up along its streets. Nowadays, everyone can have fun in Berlin, not just 20-somethings with the right jeans.
FRIDAY
5 p.m.
1. Old School Is New School
In the early '90s, soon after the Berlin Wall came down, Auguststrasse, in the fashionable neighborhood of Mitte, was the street where pioneering art gallerists set up shop. Over the years, the lane of cafes and galleries became a bit stale. Last year, the gallery owner Michael Fuchs brought fresh life to the street with the reinvention of the Ehemalige Jüdische Mädchenschule, a former Jewish girls' school, now a complex of cafes and galleries. Until late October, Eigen+Art Lab, on the third floor, will be featuring a group show, and Mr. Fuchs's own space will be showing works from Johannes Albers and Douglas Gordon. After taking in the art, grab a glass of crémant at Mogg & Melzer, an intimate modern deli on the ground floor, or a bourbon sour at the Pauly Saal Bar, a stylish space with emerald green walls and a glossy wood bar.
8 p.m.
2. With the Mitte Crowd
Katz Orange, which opened last year on a courtyard that's part of a historic brick brewery building, serves a mix of vegan and organic meat dishes like lemon potato mash served with porcini mushrooms and artichokes (19 euros, about $25 at $1.30 to the euro), and short ribs glazed with soy sauce and ginger (22 euros). The Pantry, an intimate living room of a space on the far north end of Friedrichstrasse, manages to tick almost all of the boxes, from chic but cozy design (giant caramel-toned leather sofa seats, a wall of gold tiles and natural wood floors and tables) to tasty upscale Iberico-Asian dishes like beef tataki (small portion, 12 euros).
Midnight
3. Watering Holes
By day, the Monbijoupark is a small green oasis in the hectic heart of Mitte. Recently, the surrounding area became the place to go at night, thanks to three new watering holes. Those looking for gold, glamour and the perfect cocktail should head to TheLiberate, which might as well be called The Liberace, with its interiors of quilted bronze banquettes, black and gold wallpaper and crystal chandeliers. A more relaxed spot can be found in the clublike cocktail bar of the newly opened Monbijou Hotel. The bar that everyone is talking about, however, is Trust, a two-story lounge behind an unmarked door under railway arches, which has just the right mix of international D.J.'s and gritty glamour: some surfaces are painted gold; others are of exposed concrete.
SATURDAY
11 a.m.
4. Coffee at the Barn
The Barn is a tiny cultish cafe on the corner of Auguststrasse where local style-setters will wait 10 minutes for what they consider the perfectly brewed cup of coffee. The beans are bought from micro-farmers, the espresso machines are made in Seattle, filter coffees are single origin, and adding sugar is frowned upon. (A cappuccino costs 2.40 euros.) If it's too crowded, head to Barcomi's Deli, one of the first cafes in Berlin to roast its own coffee beans. (A small cappuccino is 2.50 euros.)
1 p.m.
5. Kapoor in Berlin
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