Charleston is known mostly for its complex, magnolia-tinged history, for hospitality as grand as the stucco homes that line the fabled Battery, for its surrounding beaches and increasingly for its food scene. But Charleston also has an important tie to a Christmas icon. In the 1820s, Joel Roberts Poinsett, a native son and the first United States minister to Mexico, brought a red winter-flowering plant back to his home state and eventually Euphorbia pulcherrima became the ubiquitous botanical symbol of the season. You'll see plenty of poinsettias around Charleston during the holidays, and winter, in general, is a great time to visit. Crowds are fewer, and with the not-too-hot, not-too-cold temperatures, you can still spend plenty of time outdoors — either downtown or just across the river in the lovely Lowcountry town of Mount Pleasant.
FRIDAY
4 p.m.
1. Shopping Central
Since the early 1800s, the Charleston City Market has been a center of commerce, and with its renovation a few years ago, it's never looked so good. The main section of the market, the Great Hall, was enclosed and got skylights and a more expansive, elegant layout. The Historic Charleston Foundation offers all things Charleston, including ornaments shaped like favorite downtown buildings ($20). Check out the Charleston Hat Man and the Charleston Shoe Company, which sells look-good, feel-good shoes billed as perfect for cobblestones or cocktails (starting at $100 a pair). For a recharge, sip a macchiato from the high-end grocery/cafe, Caviar & Bananas.
6 p.m.
2. Up on the Roof
Because Charleston is on a peninsula with views in almost every direction, it's no wonder that rooftop bars are the rage. The perfect perch is the bar at the Market Pavilion Hotel, near City Market, which offers a panorama view of the harbor. Plexiglass around the perimeter and heaters keep it warm on evenings that pass for chilly. The bar menu is dominated by "M" drinks: imaginative takes on mojitos ($14 to $16), martinis ($13 to $16) and margaritas ($8.50).
7:30 p.m.
3. Son of Husk
Charleston, a city of 126,000, is home to a concentration of world-class dining normally seen in cities five times the size. For the past few years, the king-daddy of Charleston restaurants has been Husk, and several worthy spots are following in the footsteps of Husk's executive chef, Sean Brock. For instance, Two Boroughs Larder (the name refers to the restaurant's location, in the emerging area known as the Cannonborough and Elliotborough neighborhood) offers an ever-changing menu in a stripped-down interior with pantry items such as retro tea towels and locally blended cocktail mixers for sale. Recent standout dishes included an heirloom tomato salad, duck confit (with black olives and green garbanzos) and a heritage pork neck dish made with charred onions and chanterelles ($75 for two).
9:30 p.m.
4. Fill Your Tank
As long as you're in the neighborhood, stop in at Fuel Cantina, a renovated Esso station. The décor is blue-collar cool, with old gas pumps and signs as accents. The roll-up garage doors are glass; the sconces are made from pump handles. Though burgers, fish tacos and sandwiches are served here, it's best for a beer (16 types on tap, including its own brand) or an "antifreeze" shooter, a blistering green combo of vodka, pineapple juice and melon liqueur. If you still have energy, try your skill at a game of bocce on the back patio.
SATURDAY
9 a.m.
5. Wheels on the Ground
The quickest way to soak up all the city's marvels is on two wheels. Rent beach cruisers from the Bicycle Shoppe, where you can also pick up route suggestions. The best place to see the spectrum of architectural styles here, including the classic "single house" with porches running along one side, is south of Broad Street. Don't miss Legare Street with its famous wrought-iron gates or wee, brick-paved Stolls Alley. Rainbow Row — a stretch of 18th-century townhouses in sherbet hues — is a few pedal pushes away. The narrow, shady streets open up to the Battery on the southern tip of the peninsula. Catch your breath (then lose it again taking in the view of the harbor) at White Point Garden.
Noon
6. Who's Got Soul?
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