Bites: Restaurant Report: CÃºrate in Asheville, N.C.

Peter Frank Edwards

Jamón ibérico de bellota from Spain at Cúrate.

On paper, the recipe for Cúrate, a traditional Spanish tapas restaurant that opened in 2011 in downtown Asheville, seems to lack some requisite ingredients. First, the chef and co-owner Katie Button isn't Spanish. Then there's the fact that just six years ago she was a budding scientist, not a restaurateur. Finally, real Spanish food is an anomaly in this part of the country, where farm-to-table Americana is firmly rooted.

But successful business recipes, like culinary ones, are often based on passion and instincts, not textbook conformity.

"We kept thinking, 'What's missing in Asheville and what do we want to contribute?' " said Ms. Button, 30, who opted out of a neuroscience doctoral program to learn the culinary trade with stints at El Bulli in Spain, Jean-Georges in New York and two José Andrés restaurants.

A 40-foot marble bar and a frenetic open kitchen dominate Cúrate (pronounced COO-rah-tay), which was a bus depot in the 1920s. During a visit in late summer, waiters glided between tables, describing the menu's authentically prepared tapas — like the pulpo a la gallega: warm octopus flavored with sea salt, olive oil and paprika, and accompanied by puréed potatoes — in accents that mix Southern English and Catalan. Neighbors became part of the conversation, offering views on the merits of different charcuterie platters and suggesting bottles from a list of Spanish-only wines.

"The style of dining is about community and sharing, interacting with the people you are dining with in a different way," said Ms. Button, whom Mr. Andrés recently nominated as one of the "top artists for the next generation."

Ms. Button's artistry and lab training are at work in a wide range of precise, complex dishes. The rossejat negro combined toasted noodles, seared squid in its own ink, roasted garlic and salsa verde. The lamb skewers were marinated with a perfect blend of Moorish spices. And for dessert, the miel y mató awakened taste buds with honey drizzled over a roasted strawberry, a sorbet of rosé cava, and a frozen goat-cheese meringue.

Ms. Button acknowledged that Cúrate is just hitting its stride. Its popularity also continues to grow. "We've been successful because we care so much about our guests' experience," she said. "Success, though, brings the challenge of volume, and higher expectations."

Cúrate, 11 Biltmore Avenue, Asheville, N.C.; 828-239-2946; curatetapasbar.com. An average meal for two, without drinks or tip, is about $60.

Anda sedang membaca artikel tentang

Bites: Restaurant Report: CÃºrate in Asheville, N.C.

Dengan url

http://travelwisatawan.blogspot.com/2013/11/bites-restaurant-report-carate-in.html

Travel Wisata