Cory Lum for The New York Times
A rainbow frames Waimea Canyon.
These days, Kauai sits firmly on the tourist radar, an indisputable rival of its famous neighbors, Oahu and Maui. But upon first glance at its unspoiled natural splendor, you'd never know it. A closer look at one of the oldest (geologically speaking) and arguably most beautiful of the major Hawaiian Islands reveals a blossoming culinary scene, a rooted arts community and a smattering of resorts. But thanks to careful regulation (by law, building heights max out at 55 feet) and a certain amount of pushback from residents (in 2007 protesters quickly quashed high-speed ferry service between Oahu and Kauai), most of the island still feels like the world's most stunning backwater.
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Cory Lum for The New York Times
Waterfalls provide a dramatic backdrop as people stroll along Hanalei Bay.
FRIDAY
6 p.m.
1. Art and Literature
Kauai's small but enthusiastic community of artists clusters in Hanapepe, with its dozen or so galleries housed in buildings along Hanapepe Road that, although reminiscent of America's Wild West, were built by Asian immigrants around the turn of the 20th century. Every Friday, the galleries and other shops leave their doors open late for Hanapepe Art Night. You can browse through exhibitions at galleries like Island Art Gallery, at 3876 Hanapepe Road (islandartkauai.com) and Amy-Lauren's Gallery, at 4545 Kona Road (amylaurensgallery.com), which feature local artists taking inspiration from the landscape and culture of Kauai. Craft and food vendors selling Hawaiian barbecue and tacos also set up shop along the street. Reserve time to browse the pleasantly musty stacks of new and used books at Talk Story Bookstore, the only dedicated bookstore on the island — and it is a charmer.
8 p.m.
2. Dinner With Sugar
Kauai's sugar industry once dominated the landscape, and the footprints of its sprawling plantations continue to shape it today. Towns founded to serve plantation workers now serve shoppers, and plantation grounds now cater to myriad leisurely pursuits. This is especially true at the Kilohana Plantation. Here, in what was once a sprawling 16,000-square-foot home, bedrooms have been converted into shops selling items like jewelry and pottery made by local artisans; the inner courtyard is now the elegant Gaylord's Restaurant. After a couple of years of tinkering, the menu has settled on a by-turns familiar and adventurous approach — the island caprese ($14) is a refreshing twist on the salad standard, while the sesame seared fresh catch ($29) reimagines classic Hawaiian seafood dishes. Live guitar players in flowery shirts sing beachy rock standards, providing just the right dose of Hawaiian kitsch.
SATURDAY
8:30 a.m.
3. Coffee at the Source
Load up on hearty egg, vegetable and rice dishes (about $10) at Kalaheo Café & Coffee Co. Wash it down with a local blend, then head to the source. The Kauai Coffee Company got its start in 1987, taking over land formerly used for sugarcane. Since then, it has survived encroachment from the tourist industry to maintain its oceanfront headquarters, 3,100 acres of coffee trees and status as the largest coffee plantation in Hawaii. The self-guided tour is short and interesting, and connoisseurs will get a kick out of the many varieties ready to sample inside the visitor's center.
10:30 a.m.
4. Hikes With Views
Kauai is more than five million years old — plenty of time for nature to carve out some dramatic contours. Perhaps most dramatic is Waimea Canyon, a chasm over 3,000 feet deep and composed of a thousand shades of brown, green and red. Take Highway 550 to Kokee State Park, then continue on, stopping at lookouts along the way — those past mile marker 9 are particularly majestic. At the very end, both Kauai topographies loom side by side, the dusty hues of the arid south against the intense greens of the lush north. A number of hikes accommodate a wide range of ambitions. The Cliff Trail, near mile marker 14, is an easy two-mile round-trip trek to a sweeping overlook. Look for Halemanu Road, where the hike begins.
1:30 p.m.
5. End of the Road
There's no preparing for the visual spectacle of Kauai's north shore, with its mountains practically dripping green and beaches aglow with barely trodden golden sand. There's only one road in, and once you get past the resort community of Princeville, the town of Hanalei anchors the coastline with its guileless, though well-heeled, beach culture. Pick up a salmon or chicken salad sandwich (under $10) at Hanalei Gourmet, where insulated backpacks (free loaners with sandwich purchases) are available for to-go picnics, then rent snorkel gear ($7) at the Wainiha General Store just outside town. Farther on, the highway's end is the beginning of the Na Pali Coast, roughly 12 unsullied miles of verdant shoreline. That's where you'll find Kee Beach, an alcove whose water is surrounded by reef, attracting colorful marine life while keeping the waves at bay. It's a perfect snorkeling spot. After toweling off, stroll down the beach and turn around: There's the Na Pali Coast spread before you like some fantasy realm.
6 p.m.
6. Sunset Perch
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