Tracey Emin has always been associated with London. It's where she studied painting before achieving early notoriety as one of the "Young British Artists." It's the place she unveiled her infamous camping tent, embroidered with the names of all the people she'd ever slept with. It's the city in which she continues to live, work and teach.
Last December, however, the 50-year-old artist adopted a second hometown when she bought a place in Miami off the Intracoastal Waterway. She hadn't known much about the city beyond her "CSI Miami" addiction. ("Apparently most of it isn't even shot there," she says with a laugh.) But on a visit to Art Basel Miami Beach two years ago, she found herself impressed by "how brilliant and funny the people were."
Emin has long been portrayed in the British press as a wild child, but her Florida lifestyle seems positively sedate. "Last time I went to Miami," she says, "I bought food, went to my apartment and didn't leave for five days." She gets around on a lady's bike with a basket in the front and panniers in the back for groceries, thinking about her work, taking in the city's Art Deco architecture and marveling at palm trees. ("God, they can look weird," she says.)
Emin's quiet life will be disrupted this week with the opening of "Angel Without You," her solo show at the Museum of Contemporary Art North Miami, on Wednesday. (There's a gala opening reception, co-sponsored by Vanity Fair, tonight.) The exhibition, which will consist entirely of her iconic neon text pieces, is a perfect fit for Miami as she sees it: "Neon has a feel-good factor. That's why you find it in brothels, bars and casinos. But it can feel good in a more spiritual way. It doesn't just have to sell something."
"People in Miami relate to neon," she adds. "I don't have to explain anything to them."
When she's not holed up in her apartment, Emin does have a few favorite spots in her adopted hometown. She shares them below:
Cecconi's Miami Beach at Soho Beach House
"I'll get a dry white wine in a really big glass with lots of ice — more ice than wine."
The Fontainebleau
"I like to hang out at the pool."
Aventura Shopping Mall
"They've got really nice art there: Louise Bourgeois, Gary Hume."
The houses on Ocean Drive
"I like the fact that a lot of the stuff from the '60s and '70s has been renovated. Where everyone else is knocking this stuff down, Miami's actually lucky enough to be keeping it, and restoring it."
Local vernacular architecture
"The architecture's everywhere — even public lavatories. Some of them are really beautiful little buildings. And all the lifeguard houses on the beach are really beautiful. Or go much further up past north beach, there's really beautiful little pavilions."
Walgreens
"I can't believe how many there are in Miami. I can spend hours at Walgreens looking at the most amazing things that you'd never be able to buy in any other pharmacy in the world."
The Dutch at the W South Beach
"I go there with my New York gallerist when she comes in to Miami. We have dinner there."
The Boardwalk
"When I'm being a tourist, I like to go down to South Beach and buy sweatshirts that say 'Miami South Beach' and stuff like that. Stuff that I wouldn't wear in Miami but actually looks really cool in London or the South of France."
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