Created from six of the Dutch city's most beautiful 17th- and 18th-century brick townhouses, the Waldorf-Astoria Amsterdam, five years in the making, sets an impressively high bar for a new sort of stylish and discreetly luxurious European hotel. It does so by offering a carefully curated contemporary approximation of the genteel lives of the burghers who originally built these mansions during Holland's Golden Age, the period during the 17th century when the country led the world in everything from trade and maritime supremacy to art and science. So thoughtful and boutique-like is the design, you'd never guess it comes from Hilton (the corporate chain that owns the Waldorf-Astoria name).
Liveried doormen greet you at the double stoop at the hotel's main building, and check-in takes place at a pair of desks in a quiet salon with velvet upholstered tub chairs and chandeliers overlooking the pretty Herengracht canal out front. Public rooms are furnished in a soothing scheme of powder blue and willow green, a nod to the watery cityscape of Amsterdam and a large private courtyard garden — a rare luxury in this densely settled city — with a flagstone terrace and an original Baroque gazebo out back. The hotel's well-equipped gym and its small Guerlain spa overlook the garden, too. The old-fashioned safety deposit boxes on view at the Vault, the hotel's bar, are a reminder that the premises most recently housed a bank.
The big surprise here, however, is that the hotel also has one of the two or three best restaurants in town: Librije's Zusje, a branch of the Dutch chef Jonnie Boer's three-Michelin-starred restaurant De Librije in Zwolle. Headed by his former sous chef Sidney Schutte, the new offshoot throws a delicious gastronomic punch by parsing out the traditional Dutch palate — including a love of fish, pickles and cheese — in brilliant new ways, such as brown crab marinated in fino sherry with Granny Smith apple, goose liver, goat yogurt and brioche or cod with green tea, passion fruit, cockles and brown algae. The wine pairing proposed by the talented Italian sommelier is highly recommended, and they also do a terrific vegetarian tasting menu. And don't miss Librije's Zusje deconstructed, sorbet-based riff on a Waldorf salad — the American classic of chopped apples, celery, grapes and mayonnaise that debuted at New York's Waldorf-Astoria hotel in 1893.
Herengracht 542-556, Amsterdam; waldorfastoria3.hilton.com.
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