Violet Oon's Kitchen
Graham Assam fish at Violet Oon's Kitchen, a food writer's first restaurant.
Before Joel Robuchon, Guy Savoy and Daniel Boulud came to Singapore, the country had its own homegrown celebrity chef — Violet Oon, sometimes referred to as the Julia Child of Singapore.
Ms. Oon, 63, made her name as a food writer in the '70s and '80s and eventually established herself as one of the leading authorities on Singaporean cooking, publishing several cookbooks, making regular television appearances and releasing her own cookie and spice lines. But she hadn't found success as a restaurateur until last July when she teamed up with her two business-savvy children to open Violet Oon's Kitchen.
Ms. Oon credits her daughter, Tay Su-Lyn, 36, and son, Tay Yiming, 31, with finding a way to make her traditional Singaporean dishes more appealing to their generation. Su-Lyn designed a modern black-and-white-tiled bistro that borrows elements from an old-school Singaporean shophouse without feeling antiquated. Yiming, meanwhile, is in charge of the front of the house. "The input of Yiming and Su-Lyn was very important because what they think is 'now,' " Ms. Oon said.
The menu reflects this cross-generational approach by including classic Peranakan recipes — the fusion cuisine of descendants of early Chinese immigrants to modern-day Singapore, Malaysia and Indonesia — and a few creative spins on traditional dishes.
Hay bee hiam, or dried shrimp fried in a spicy sambal, for instance, is served on a panini with Monterey Jack cheese, sweet onion relish and arugula. And Su-Lyn persuaded Ms. Oon to reinvent a traditional dessert called bubor cha cha — sweet potatoes, yams and tapioca pearls in coconut milk — as a panna cotta. "She said, 'Mommy, that dessert is out-of-date,'" Ms. Oon recalled. "I thought, 'Oh my goodness, you know you're making me do this and I have to experiment?' "
For the most part, however, the recipes for the Peranakan main courses, which Ms. Oon inherited from her aunts, were left untouched. Her beef rendang is done the old-fashioned way, slowly frying the chilies, galangal, shallots, lemon grass and other spices and then stewing the beef for hours. And her chicken curry is served with roti jala, a thin, lacey pancake that isn't so common in restaurants anymore. "I love cooking things properly," she said. "Traditionally, with no shortcuts."
Violet Oon's Kitchen, 881 Bukit Timah Road; (65) 6468-5430; violetoonskitchen.com. Average meal for two, without drinks or tip, is 70 Singapore dollars (about $60).
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