Wolfgang Puck now has company: a number of airports across the country are opening restaurants from high-profile hometown chefs, offering local flavor to fliers.
In contrast to the coast-to-coast Puck empire, the new arrivals include the kinds of chefs who are solidly identified with their cities. Some are expected to open spinoffs at the new Tom Bradley International Terminal at Los Angeles International Airport. The chef Michael Voltaggio, of Ink and Ink.Sack, is taking Ink.Sack, an upscale sandwich shop, to the airport. Suzanne Goin, who runs four restaurants in Los Angeles, including the acclaimed Lucques, is expected to open Larder at Tavern, a high-end deli, in November.
In Chicago, the chef Rick Bayless of Frontera Grill operates several Mexican sandwich shops, Tortas Frontera, at O'Hare International Airport, including a new outlet in the international terminal. At Houston's George Bush Intercontinental Airport, the chef Bryan Caswell, of the noted city restaurant Reef, opened 3rd Bar Oyster & Eating House in the renovated south concourse in April. And at Denver International Airport, Justin Cucci, chef and owner of the popular farm-to-table restaurant Root Down in the Lower Highlands neighborhood, opened an airport outlet last month.
The restaurants, most of which tailor their menus to on-the-fly diners with extensive to-go options, are reinterpreting the concept of eating local.
"We've tried to bring Denver to D.I.A.," said Rod Tafoya, president of Mission Restaurant Group, Root Down's airport concessionaire partner. "Half the traffic at D.I.A. is connecting, so if we show them a little about Denver and what's unique, they might come back."
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