Tim Street-Porter
The 22-room luxury inn is a bicycle ride from beaches and wineries.
From $950 to $3,000 through Oct. 31; $550 to $1,800 off-season.
Basics
New York comes to the Hamptons. This 22-room luxury inn, anchored in an 1842 Greek Revival mansion, caters to 1 percenters who crave Manhattan brands even while "roughing it" at the beach. The hotel has a farm-to-table restaurant (Tom Colicchio, the acclaimed chef of the Craft empire, operates the entire property); art curated by a Chelsea gallery; and cool, contemporary décor with touches of tradition — as befits this historic gem with new modern wings. Visitors to the Hamptons typically brace themselves for attitude. But service here provided a divine contrast. Arriving five hours before check-in, we expected a firm "No way." A manager said "No problem" instead. At every turn there is a chance to expand your art collection with paintings and photographs by Hamptons art stars like Robert Wilson — but his video of a snow owl, winking from the bar, could set you back $60,000.
Location
The hotel is in the heart of Bridgehampton, on Route 27, a power artery. It is a bicycle ride from beaches and wineries, a stroll from the Hampton Jitney and a short drive to the Hamptons International Film Festival (Oct. 10 to 14). The hotel imparts a sense of separation from the madding crowds with al fresco eating areas and an expansive veranda. Still, new landscaping and a privet hedge can't hide the grinding traffic jams on the Montauk Highway.
The Room
The closest thing to a "deal" we found was the Taste of Topping Rose package: $600 per night, Sunday through Wednesday, with $200 applied to food and wine. (The rate is now $700.) Our spacious second-floor room overlooked the pool and included a trim convertible sofa and king bed. The palette was soothing — gray, white and yellow — and the décor a mix of the sophisticated and handmade: midcentury-inspired furnishings, Madeline Weinrib rug, and arch photos by Christopher Boffoli depicting tiny people in a world of towering macarons — a reminder that we were in the playland of big appetites and excess. We could see but not hear the highway: blackout curtains and bank-vault-worthy windows made the room a sound cocoon.
The Bathroom
Ample, with Naturopathica products, a drenching shower (but no soaking tub) and plush robes.
Amenities
Rates include wireless Internet, a flat-screen TV, full breakfast and beach parking permit. The giant goody basket contained a week's worth of locally sourced snacks like Brooklyn's Mast Brothers Chocolate, and the refrigerator was stocked with free vitamin waters and lemonade. One wrinkle: The "spa" is subterranean — a few uninviting massage rooms. We're still puzzling over the "hors d'oeuvres" that arrived before dinner: three immature carrots and a tiny bowl of dip. They created a carrot quandary. We were two. Was the third for Bugs Bunny?
Dining
The hotel provides room service, but the action is in the bright, art-filled dining room. Since we would be checking out very early, we requested the next day's complimentary breakfast upon arrival. The "Bridgehampton town fry" — scrambled organic eggs, house-cured bacon, oysters with chili dust — was an excellent introduction to the hotel's locavore ambitions. Dinner featured local seafood, inventive pastas and vegetables that get star billing on the menu. While the hotel staff met our every need, we wished the servers of the vaunted restaurant had been as well trained. Forty minutes passed before a waiter took so much as a drink order.
Bottom Line
Topping Rose is an affluent New Yorker's guilty pleasure — a calm oasis on the throbbing East End. The budget-conscious are advised to seek out midweek packages — or pray for Groupon.
Topping Rose House, 1 Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Turnpike; (631) 237-1929; toppingrosehouse.com.
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