Bites: Restaurant Report: The Blackanese Sushi & Wine Bar in Johannesburg

Vusi Kunene, the restaurateur behind the Blackanese, prepares fish.

On a stretch of the eastern fringe of downtown Johannesburg, the Maboneng Precinct (maboneng is Sotho for "place of light") materializes like a hipster mirage. This once-gritty enclave has been transformed into a creative haven with galleries, a popular weekly market and, of course, restaurants. Last winter the Blackanese, a pocket-size Afro-Asian spot, joined the fray with a brick-and-mortar avatar of a successful mobile stall.

It's an unexpected concept, but then, Vusi Kunene is an unexpected restaurateur. Raised in Johannesburg, he held various odd jobs before becoming a waiter in Cape Town. It was there that he encountered sushi for the first time. "It was love at first sight," he said. The Blackanese started as a food cart, making appearances at wine festivals, food shows and markets, including Maboneng's own Market on Main.

The brick-and-mortar version's intimate room gives nods to its half-Japanese provenance: chopsticks embellish one wall and upturned miso bowls play the part of lampshades.

Amid this, Mr. Kunene serves classics — California rolls, sashimi, nigiri — with a few surprises tossed in for homegrown palates: biltong (jerky, a local staple) sushi; prawn braai (barbecue) with Thai rice; vegetarian rolls featuring cucumber, avocado and strawberries.

Not all the twists are successful. The wisps of meat in the biltong sushi are difficult to detect, and the beef chow mein deserves to be skipped. But a sliver of strawberry lends a sudden surge of flavor to an otherwise standard vegetarian roll. And Mr. Kunene doesn't overdo it with the fusion items, which can easily get muddled.

"With sushi, you can never take it too far," he said. "It's like a beautiful girl: she can just throw on a bit of makeup. She's beautiful already."

On a recent Saturday night, the stylish young crowd resembles a casting call for the Rainbow Nation, a sobriquet often used for South Africa. This sort of scene is exactly what drew Mr. Kunene to Maboneng.

"Joburg is full of crazy people that are always willing to engage with crazy ideas," he said. "In Joburg, only your thoughts can limit you."

The Blackanese Sushi & Wine Bar, 20 Kruger Street, Johannesburg; (27-11) 024-9455; theblackanese.co.za. Average price for a meal for two, without drinks or tip, is about 250 rands, or $25 at 9.75 rand to the dollar. (Note: Despite the name, the restaurant will not be fully licensed until November, so bring your own.)

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